Terunyan

Most people think of Bali as beaches and temples. But take a boat across Lake Batur and you will find a place where the dead are not buried or burned. They are laid to rest in the open, under the shade of a sacred tree. This is Terunyan, home of the Bali Aga, the island’s original people.

Getting to Terunyan: Why People Think It Is an Island

Reaching Terunyan is not like visiting any other Balinese village. You cannot simply drive there. Instead, you cross Lake Batur in a small wooden boat, gliding past volcanic cliffs and quiet waters. This boat journey makes many visitors believe Terunyan is an island. In reality, it is on the eastern shore of the lake, but its isolation has kept its traditions alive for centuries.

The Bali Aga: Bali Before Hinduism

The Bali Aga are believed to be Bali’s earliest inhabitants, living here long before Hindu influences arrived in the 9th century. While most Balinese today follow Hindu customs, the Bali Aga have preserved older ways of life in architecture, weaving, rituals, and governance.

A Burial Tradition Unlike Anywhere Else in Bali

In Hindu Bali, cremation ceremonies called Ngaben release the soul through fire. Terunyan’s Bali Aga follow a different path. Here, bodies are placed above ground, not buried or burned, in bamboo cages beneath the sacred Taru Menyan tree. This tree’s name means “fragrant tree” and, according to legend, its scent masks the smell of decay.

Life and Death Under the Taru Menyan Tree

The deceased are dressed in their final clothes, faces covered with white cloth, and laid side by side under the tree. Over time, the flesh decays naturally, and the skulls are moved to a stone altar by the lake. This is not considered morbid. It is seen as part of a deep spiritual relationship with nature, ancestors, and the land itself.

Why Terunyan Feels Like Another World

Terunyan is not a tourist show. It is a living tradition that continues much as it has for hundreds of years. Visiting here is a reminder that Bali is more than beaches and resorts. It is a patchwork of cultures, each with its own story to tell.